With fashion in a constant state of evolution, it is critical to think out of the box and then stay true to one’s concepts to truly succeed. That ideology, coupled with a marriage of the minds between designers and stores could be the ideal way forward
In the late 1980’s and early ‘90’s, the majority of sales adesigner racked up could be attributed to the city in which she/he was based.This was always one of the metros. If at all someone based elsewhere wanted‘designer togs’ they would have to make a trip to the aforementioned metrocity. Brides from across the length and breadth of India would have travelledto Delhi or Mumbai three times in random succession for their trousseau,firstly for selections, secondly for a trial where fit issues would be ironedout and lastly for delivery of garments from the designer’s store. There wasjust ‘Ensemble’ in existence. India’s premier multi-designer store.
Slowly things started to change. Demand for bespoke andhigh-end garments convinced some that multi-designer stores would be a viablebusiness option in Kolkata and Chennai. That evolved into cities like Bangaloreand Hyderabad. With the IT sector establishing its roots in the south and theplanned developments in other sectors towards the north, disposable income hadto find a companion in clothes. Expensive clothes. Dead stocks were no morebeing sent across to stores in Tier II cities. Retailers, merchandisers anddesigners got together in ensuring that merchandise was standardised all over.Certain communal factors did creep in. More bling and shine, in and aroundDelhi based stores and weaves and basics towards Chennai. However in one areathey were unified – no sleeveless items of clothing!
Destinations within the country, popular with tourists, adaptedto their needs. Jaipur spread out its colourful and labour intensive bandhaniand ajrak printed clothes, Panjim showcased its minimal and resort appropriategarments. When the 2000’s came about, consumers were spoilt for choice. Itwasn’t just bridal which retailed. Ready to wear or prêt-a-porter as we call ithad grown into its own. In fact now you see stores surviving mostly onleft-lobe design sensibilities. Anonym in Hyderabad, Sacha’s Shop in Panjim andThe Verandah in Bengaluru are great examples.
As any designer in the ‘00’s will attest to, being active onthe social media front is given. Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, Youtube – designhouses and brands have their profiles up and running. It is an easier way todisseminate information; directly interacting with the consumer, the blogger,the journalist and the troll. Stories break and deals are grabbed first onmicro-blogging sites. Indian fashion designers have embraced social media.People in Dhanbad can interact directly with Wendell Rodricks now, withoutgoing through the entire exercise of having to unearth email addresses andtelephone numbers. It surprised me initially that a couple of years back I hadpeople writing into my Facebook page, enquiring about my clothes. Where couldthey find them? Were they available in a particular size? How much did itretail at? At first my team would direct them towards the nearest store KallolDatta 1955 was available at in Delhi or Mumbai. Then we realized that a largenumber of enquiries were coming in from Tier II cities like Nagpur, Mangalore,Raipur and the likes. You then understand that ‘fashion’ as a phenomenon wasnot just isolated to a few places. The internet, television and print mediahouses have helped cause awareness to clothes and raised expectations inconsumers mind as to what they want and need aesthetically. Consumers all overhave become equally demanding, equally aware and individual in their tastes.
Kallol Datta, in all humility, calls himself a ‘clothesmaker’ but he is more than that. Over the last few years, since he founded thelabel ‘Kallol Datta 1955’ in 2007 (The number in the name denotes the year hismother was born), he has moved away from the new age convention of blingencrusted design to feed of his upbringing on art and literature and createdesigns that are simplistic, yet experimental, minimalistic yet alternative.
He is tech savvy, a columnist for various publications andconducts workshops and classes at the National Institute of Fashion Design foryoung aspirants. He lives a partially secluded life in his hometown Kolkata,where he continues to create lines that capture the imagination of fans ofcouture everywhere
