Café Borkar in St Inez, Panaji has been around for over a century, serving delicious breakfasts and offering a relaxing cup of tea in the evenings. The Goan discovers how this café has kept its legacy alive through the years.
In the midst of Goa’s evolving café scene, where trendy spots compete for reel-worthy aesthetics, Café Borkar in St Inez, Panaji stands out as an icon of tradition and legacy. This nearly 120-year-old cafe has successfully weathered the changing tides of time while being a sanctuary of Goan flavours. Its walls echo with stories of the past, and provide a tranquil retreat for locals looking to escape the bustling tourist crowds.
An inviting ambiance
Café Borkar radiates a charming and inviting ambience, enhanced by its strategically placed windows that open to a serene road intersection. The cosy feel creates the perfect setting for those who wish to unwind and relish the simple pleasures of life. Guests can sit by the window and enjoy the morning light or the evening glow while savouring a steaming cup of tea, all without putting a strain on their wallets.
Over a century long legacy
The café, founded nearly 120 years ago by Hari Borkar, is now run by his great-grandson Shivam Borkar, along with his father and brother, keeping the family legacy alive. “Customers keep returning because of the heritage we’ve built. The taste has remained unchanged over the years, and that’s what our customers appreciate. These recipes have been passed down through three generations, and now my mother carries on the tradition of making them.”
Goan delights
The menu features a variety of beloved items that capture the essence of Goan cuisine. Classic offerings include bhaji, mirchi, and kappa, served alongside a steaming cup of tea or coffee. The café plans to introduce xacuti to the menu in the coming week. However, one dish that has remained a beloved staple for over a century is the patal bhaji, known for its consistent flavour that has not changed over the years. “The demand for the bhaji is high; it sells out quickly in the mornings,” Shivam notes with a hint of pride. “We open at 6:30 am, and by 8:30 am, it’s usually gone. My mother prepares at least 4 kg each day,” he says.
A destination for all of Goa
The café attracts visitors from all over Goa, drawn by the opportunity to savour a cup of tea paired with traditional Goan snacks.
Café Borkar has gracefully expanded over the years while preserving its original charm. “The place has been here for 100 years; it was much smaller before,” Shivam explains. “We’ve modernised the furniture, but the core structure remains the same,” he adds.
Preserving tradition
Maintaining a legacy for 100 years is no small feat, and Shivam admits that customers are drawn to the café for its distinctive flavours. “If that changes, we won’t have anyone coming here,” he notes. The real challenge lies in preserving the taste that has become synonymous with Café Borkar. Additionally, the recent smart city construction project closed the road, forcing the café to shut down for two months. Despite this setback, Shivam says, “It was a bit difficult for the business, but we bounced back.”
A welcoming atmosphere
The clientele primarily consists of office-goers and locals seeking a pleasant break in their busy day, allowing customers to connect over shared meals and stories.
“My friends and I come here during tea break, with its delicious food and calming atmosphere Cafe Borkar provides a homey atmosphere. The friendly staff and attentive service add to the café's charm, plus it’s budget-friendly,” says Allan Rodrigues.
