Perched on Panaji’s riverfront promenade, Hotel Mandovi opened on 2 December 1952, coinciding with the 400th death anniversary of St Francis Xavier. Its inauguration marked a milestone in Goan hospitality—the unveiling of the Portuguese colony’s very first starred hotel.
Conceived by the renowned Mumbai architectural firm of Master, Sathe and Butha, the six-storey landmark embodied the elegance of international-style design, characterised by clean lines and functional form. A striking bas-relief mural on its façade added a uniquely Goan touch, narrating scenes of everyday life. Built with materials and skilled labour brought in from Mumbai, the hotel rose at a time when direct trade between India and Portugal was fraught with obstacles, making its creation a remarkable achievement.
According to hotel archives, preparations for the 10th solemn exposition of the Sacred Relics of St Francis Xavier were on a grand scale, with the Vatican, the Portuguese authorities and the rulers of Goa involved in the planning. Pilgrims and dignitaries were expected from across the globe, yet Panaji lacked a modern establishment to host distinguished guests. Recognising this shortfall, Portuguese Governor General Paulo Benard Guedes pressed for a solution. It was then that the visionary Quenim family stepped forward, seizing the opportunity to build a world-class hotel that would redefine hospitality in Goa.
Construction of Hotel Mandovi was an all-hands effort, with masons, carpenters, engineers and architects working tirelessly around the clock. Governor General Paulo Benard Guedes himself frequently inspected the site, and as the inauguration date drew near, his visits became a daily ritual, according to hotel records.
When completed, the hotel embodied elegance and modernity. Its interiors featured polished wood-panelled walls, gleaming brass fittings and Portuguese inscriptions that reflected Goa’s colonial character. Rising six storeys on a prominent corner plot, the structure presented contrasting façades—the east side closed and solid, while the north side opened dramatically towards the Mandovi River with sweeping verandas. Adding a distinctive artistic flourish, the eastern wall bore a ceramic mural—credited either to sculptor Constâncio Fernandes or ceramicist Cuncolincar—that vividly portrayed everyday Goan life with the hotel itself forming part of the narrative.
Hotel Mandovi introduced Goa to its very first elevator, manufactured by the British firm Marryat and Scott. More than a utility, it quickly became a sensation—so novel that crowds thronged to ride what locals called the “electric cage.” Controlling the eager visitors required tact, and in a unique gesture, schools across Goa were invited to bring children in small groups to experience the marvel, as recorded in the hotel’s archives.
The interiors reflected refined Art Deco elegance, complemented by carefully chosen imports: sanitary fittings, beds and cutlery from England; Italian marble; fine crystal from France and Belgium; and Japanese crockery. V. S. Kamat, the hotel’s long-serving manager who dedicated nearly six decades to its service, recalled the opening day with fondness—throngs of people poured in to admire Goa’s largest hotel, many fascinated as much by the lift as by its luxurious setting.
Hotel Mandovi also broke new ground by becoming one of the first in Goa licensed to serve imported alcohol, pairing international spirits with Goan cuisine. Though the elevator’s original structure has endured, its electro-mechanical system was later replaced with modern electrical controls for safety, ensuring the same carriage continued to serve guests while adapting to contemporary standards.
Through the decades, Hotel Mandovi kept pace with changing times. In 1977, its interiors were redesigned to accommodate air-conditioning, followed by a series of upgrades that mainly focused on guest rooms. Some of its open verandas on the north façade were enclosed, though the river-facing veranda on the sixth floor and the dining hall’s first-floor veranda continued to offer scenic views, albeit with modifications. At different stages, small rooftop structures were also added.
Despite these changes, the hotel never lost its stature as a Goan landmark—a seamless blend of modernist architecture and local heritage gracing the banks of the Mandovi. It was even chosen as the designated accommodation for Pope John Paul II during his visit to Goa, a testament to its prestige.
For generations of Goans, Hotel Mandovi was much more than just a place to stay. It was Panaji’s living room and dining table—a kitchen that served comforting Goan meals, a bakery famed for its confectionery, a tavern with the best imported spirits, and a venue large enough to host over two hundred guests with unmatched elegance. Above all, it was remembered for its spotless hygiene and warmth.
When its doors closed in September 2019, Panaji lost more than a hotel—it lost a piece of its cultural soul. Today, only memories remain, cherished deeply by locals and all who once experienced its legendary hospitality.
