PANAJI
Cashew farmers in Goa are facing tough times as their once-thriving industry grapples with a series of challenges, impacting the production of their famous drinks, feni and urrack.
The cashew business, which has been a source of pride for Goa, is now on the decline.
Cashew farmers in the region are facing challenges stemming from erratic weather patterns, pest infestations, forest fires, and a dearth of coherent governmental strategies. These converging issues have compounded to present a formidable obstacle for cashew growers.
Additionally, the rising costs of labour are adding to their problems. The impact of these challenges is being felt throughout the production chain, leading to a decrease in the output of feni and urrack, two of Goa's most well-known beverages.
Victorino Fernandes, a veteran in the distillery business from Korgao Pernem, shared his concerns about the decreasing cashew fruit and subsequent liquor production. He explained, "there is a decline in cashew fruits, which has greatly affected our business. Weather conditions, such as fog followed by sudden heat, can destroy the flowers. Additionally, factors like humidity and overall climate effects contribute to the decline in the season."
Fernandes emphasised the vulnerability of cashew farming to environmental changes, highlighting the need for sustainable solutions to protect the industry.
Throwing light on the pricing of feni and urrack, Fernandes noted a significant increase compared to the previous year. "The cost of urrack was Rs 100 a bottle last year, while feni was priced at Rs 150. This year, both have seen a significant increase of Rs 50," he said. Fernandes pointed out the challenge of balancing supply and demand, noting that despite higher prices, the supply remains insufficient to meet the growing demand.
Gladston Botelho, owner of the popular pub-restaurant K-Bar in Panaji city, echoed Fernandes's observations about the demand-supply dynamics of urrack. "The demand for urrack is consistently high, particularly this year, but the supply is inadequate," Botelho said. He highlighted a notable price increase, with a (35litres) gallon of urrack now costing Rs 4,500 compared to Rs 3,500 in previous years.
Botelho's remarks highlighted the impact of supply shortages on consumer affordability, with prices rising across various establishments. He also expressed concerns about declining quality, suggesting that weather conditions or reduced fruit availability may be contributing factors.
Eligio Fernandes, owner of the popular bar and restaurant "Cajy Bar" in Arpora, shared similar concerns. He attributed this decline to adverse weather conditions, which have affected the quality and quantity of cashew fruit harvested in the region.
Fernandes mentioned that due to the shortage of cashew fruit, urrak production had shifted across the border, causing difficulties in sourcing authentic Goan urrak. He emphasised the importance of preserving and promoting the legacy of local drinks like feni and urrak, especially highlighting their significance in Goa's cultural identity.
Reflecting on past seasons, Fernandes noted a significant increase in demand for urrak, with customers frequently inquiring about its availability throughout the year. However, he lamented that the supply of Urrak has not kept pace with this growing demand, leading to shortages.
Regarding pricing, Fernandes disclosed that he purchases one litre of urrak for Rs 200 and sells it for Rs 500 per bottle on the table, inclusive of all taxes, to ensure quality. However, he acknowledged the challenges of maintaining consistent quality amidst fluctuating supply and demand dynamics in the market.
Furthermore, cashew farmers and distillers in Goa are calling for better support and subsidies to preserve the traditional methods of making feni and urrack, amidst concerns over decreasing yields and low market prices.
Matilda Fernandes, a local cashew distiller from Pernem, voiced her frustrations, emphasising the challenges faced by traditional cashew businesses. "I have difficulties in continuing this traditional business of making feni and urrack as the demand is more but the customers expect the price to be less and moreover this year there is a decreased yield of cashews due to the unpredictable weather."
Balbin Gonsalves, a cashew farmer from Valpoi, shared his struggles with the recent influx of insects, which has wreaked havoc on his plantation. "This year, insects destroyed a major part of my plantation… the mosquitoes sit on the new shoots and destroy them. Spraying pesticide this time did not have much effect", he said.
The difficulties encountered by cashew farmers and distillers in Goa underscore the importance of concerted actions to tackle environmental and economic strains. While stakeholders grapple with these obstacles, they stay dedicated to safeguarding the cultural and economic importance of feni and urrack, both cherished emblems of Goan heritage.
