Embracing the ‘Susegad’ life at Café Aram in Panaji

Café Aram on 18 June Road, Panaji, has been serving authentic Goan breakfasts for over six decades. This café is a beloved local gem amidst trendy, high-priced newcomers. Annoushka Fernandes of The Goan discovers what makes Café Aram a timeless favourite.

| JUNE 23, 2024, 12:20 AM IST
Embracing the ‘Susegad’ life at Café Aram in Panaji

In the heart of Panaji, along the busy 18 June Road, life moves in a symphony of activity. Office goers hurry by, shoppers navigate the narrow lanes with bags full of local finds, tourists soak in the vibrant sights of Panaji and the city buzzes with energy under the morning sun's golden glow.

A peaceful retreat Amidst this lively scene, Café Aram offers a peaceful retreat. Its welcoming facade spills onto the sidewalk, signalling the comforting aroma of freshly brewed tea and tempting breakfast. Inside, the café buzzes with gentle conversation and the clink of cutlery, where friends and strangers share moments over steaming cups of ‘chau.’

An authentic Goan breakfast

Café Aram has been serving authentic Goan breakfast for over 60 years. Founded by Sadanand Kesarkar in the early 1960s, the café is now managed by his son Shailesh Kesarkar, who has maintained its timeless charm and warm hospitality. With its pristine location and bright blue paint, this popular spot is hard to miss.

A nostalgic gem

While numerous new cafes and eateries in Panaji boast Instagram-worthy aesthetics and high prices, Café Aram remains a nostalgic gem. It bustles with locals, office goers, and tourists who come to savour Goan snacks with a cup of tea. The place offers a respite from the city's chaos, providing a break from the hustle and bustle of a busy day.

Commitment to quality and affordability“We believe in good quality food and service and our rates are reasonable. You will not get 10 Rs tea in most places. With the blessing of God everything is going great for us,” says Kesarkar with a smile. The name "Aram" translates to "susegad," in Konkani derived from the Portuguese word "sossegado," meaning "quiet." This notion perfectly reflects the relaxed, laid-back attitude towards life that has historically been prevalent in Goa for generations.

A family-run business

A second-generation business owner, Kesarkar began helping his father when he was a young schoolboy, learning the tricks of the business and keeping his customers happy. “Now that my father has grown old, my brother and I run the place. Even our kids are involved in the business operations," he said.

Culinary delights

The café's specialities are well-known among its customers such as authentic Goan snacks like mirchi bhaji, samosa, chana masala, mushroom and sukhi bhaji which one can enjoy with either puris or Goan bread along with tea and coffee. “Our main focus is our customer satisfaction and to ensure that we provide them with the best quality of food in great quantity,” he says.

Challenges in changing times

Although one never finds Café Aram empty, Kesarkar notes a decline in customers due to the relocation of buildings and schools from the vicinity. "We mainly depend on locals," he explains. "But now, with offices and schools moving away, we have seen a decline in customers. Fewer people are coming to Panaji for work. New buildings are coming up elsewhere, and most of us businessmen in Panaji are facing challenges because of these shifts. For the past three years, we have been dealing with this issue, and business continues to decline. The smart city works have only added to our woes. I hope things get better for us," he adds with a smile, noting that despite these challenges, people are still drawn to the café for its food.

Preserving nostalgic charmThe café has preserved its nostalgic charm and original design with minimal alterations over the years. "We haven't made many changes to the place; we've tried to uphold the original structure," Kesarkar explains. "I believe in preserving its authenticity. Some of our furniture is decades old, and we highly value these pieces, though we have updated the seating arrangements. Our aim has always been to retain the old-world style," he states.

A heartwarming tradition for locals

"Café Aram has remained close to the hearts of locals who have moved away from Goa," reminisces Celeste Fernandes. "When I was little, after a long day of shopping in Panaji Market, we would often come here. Café Aram’s ‘bhaji pao’ and ‘mirchi’ remains my favourite. Every time I return home, visiting this place is a must," she adds.

Café Aram stands as a place where time seems to slow down, offering a tranquil interlude amid the bustling city.

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