Wednesday 08 May 2024

Generations of flavour: Café Aurora's family legacy continues

Founded in the 1940s, Café Aurora continues to thrive. The Goan explores this beloved establishment that has been a cornerstone of Goan cuisine in Mapusa

VEDA RAUT | APRIL 21, 2024, 12:21 AM IST

In the heart of the bustling Mapusa market lies a culinary gem, Café Aurora, where tradition meets tantalising savouries. For over half a century, this cherished eatery has been a beacon for locals and travellers alike, offering not just delectable snacks but also traditional Goan dishes.


The journey of Café Aurora began in the 1940s when it was founded by Alecino Fernandes. Today, the warm and welcoming ambience is curated by Agnes Fernandes, Alecino's daughter-in-law, who continues the legacy with her ever-smiling presence.


A journey anchored in tradition


In a conversation with Agnes, she shares insights into the cafe's history and her role in its evolution.


Agnes reminisces about her journey, starting as an employee after completing her accounting course. While not originally a part of her family, the cafe became intertwined with her life after marriage, with her husband Lawrence's lineage tracing back to its origins.


Embracing tradition


amidst culinary evolution


Over the years, Café Aurora has witnessed the changing landscape of Goa's culinary scene, with an influx of new cafes and eateries. Despite the competition, the cafe remains steadfast in its commitment to tradition, offering beloved dishes that have stood the test of time.


One such dish is the iconic bhaji-pav-tea combination, a favourite among patrons for generations. The menu has evolved over the years, with Agnes noting, "After every two years, we make a few changes. Customers used to love our bhaji, bread, and tea. Now, biryani is a hit." But despite the changes, the essence remains unchanged – homemade flavours that keep patrons coming back for more.


Navigating challenges with resilience


Running a cafe with such a rich history comes with its challenges. Agnes candidly discusses the difficulties, from managing staff to navigating through tough times like the COVID-19 pandemic, which forced the cafe to temporarily close its doors.


Through resilience and perseverance, Café Aurora has weathered the storms, relying on the support of family and loyal customers. Agnes recounts, "We faced difficulties with workers and shopping, especially during the COVID-19 pandemic when we had to temporarily close. Even though the restaurant remained closed, I would sit at a little counter at the entrance and sell snacks." Agnes credits her children for lending a helping hand in keeping the legacy alive.


Despite modernisation, Café Aurora remains rooted in its traditions. Aurora, meaning "Morningstar," is a name steeped in familial history. "It's from our ancestors, so we embrace it," Agnes explains. With over four decades of dedication, Agnes has witnessed evolution, from menu tweaks to furniture upgrades, while maintaining the café's authentic charm.


The legacy of Café Aurora lies not just in its cuisine but in its ability to adapt while preserving tradition. As Agnes reflects, "We keep the originality in our food. It's like home-cooked meals served with love."


Community and tradition


"I've been coming here for years," shares Althea Rodrigues from Mapusa. "Aunty Agnes is so welcoming and sweet that it's hard to stay away," she adds. Another loyal customer reminisces, "I've been coming here since my college days. It's been almost 10 years now, but I still come by for a hot plate of beef chilly. The food reminds me of my mum's cooking. It gives me a sense of a home away from home."


In an ever-changing world, where trends come and go, Café Aurora stands as a timeless example, reminding us of the value of heritage, community, and the simple pleasure of a well-cooked meal.

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