While Goa is renowned as a popular beach destination, it also boasts stunning fields and hinterlands. Agriculture has been integral to Goa for centuries, influenced by diverse climates, temperatures, and soil types that dictate the range of crops cultivated and local food varieties. Paddy farming, essential to Goan cuisine and the livelihood of its farmers, entails considerable dedication, patience, and is heavily reliant on favorable weather conditions.
At the time of Goa's liberation, approximately 70% of its population engaged in agriculture full-time. Paddy was the primary crop, followed by cashew and coconut. Paddy cultivation has been done during the rainy season, with irrigation methods employed in areas with less rainfall. The crop is grown in three main topographical zones: rain-fed uplands (Morod), lowlands (Kher), and reclaimed saline floodplains known as Khazans. Paddy is cultivated in both kharif (monsoon) and rabi (winter) seasons. Much of Goa's agricultural land is owned by the oldest village community known as Comunidades.
With the onset of the monsoon, farmers in Goa begin the process of sowing paddy seeds, transforming the fields into vibrant shades of green. Among the 28 varieties of paddy seeds in Goa, indigenous varieties like Muno, Assgo, and Korgut are known for their resilience to salinity and pests. Over 20 other varieties are cultivated, including Damgo, Khochro, Mungo, Bello, Kalo Novan, Babri, Shitto, Shiedi, Patni, Mudgo, Sotti, Navan, and Black rice. Some traditional varieties have been replaced by high-yielding hybrids such as Jyoti, Jaya, Goa-Dhan1, Goa-Dhan2, Goa-Dhan3, and Goa-Dhan4.
At the monsoon onset, Goa's fields are plowed to soften the mud, create beds, partitions, and eliminate weeds. Typically, a steel plow called nagor is harnessed to two bullocks. Guided by specific commands, the bullocks pull the yoke (a wooden crossbeam attached across the bull’s neck) as the farmer directs. After enriching the soil with manure, sprouted seeds (rou) are uniformly spread in fenced nursery beds. Within three weeks, the crop flourishes. After 21-22 days, the transplanting process (rompta) commences, with female workers meticulously uprooting and replanting 2-3 saplings, ensuring 4-5 inches of space between each plant. Alternately, some farmers spread seeds randomly.
Following this stage, the farmer experiences relief as the rain takes over nurturing the crops. Weeding ensures unhindered growth, allowing the crop to absorb essential nutrients from the soil. Flowers and panicles begin to emerge by the end of August, gradually turning golden as they mature. By late September, the crop is ready for harvesting, and farmers remain vigilant, hoping to avoid any additional rain that could potentially damage the standing crop.
The harvesting methods include threshing, winnowing, and sun drying. Paddy is parboiled in brass pots (bhann/moddki) and stored in woven poly bags with Vitex negundo (lingur leaves) or neem leaves for unprocessed paddy, and boric powder for milled rice. Extra paddy is stored in a cylindrical thick bamboo mat called koddo. From rice, various dishes like kanji, vhodde, sanna, shevio, patolleo, dhone, poye, fov are prepared. Godshe made from rice, jaggery, and lentils is considered a delicacy.
In ancient times, every household in Goa practiced sustainable and organic farming, each owning fields. Knowledge was passed down from the head of the family to successive generations. High labour cost, coupled with challenges like saltwater intrusion and flooding, migration, fewer people are continuing the traditional farming practices due to limited profitability. While many traditional practices endure, modern mechanization has been introduced in recent years to facilitate large-scale cultivation, making it more efficient and affordable.
Mechanised community farming initiative by Salesian Fr.George Quadros and his team has transformed agriculture in Goa from traditional to advanced technologies with the use of tractors, rotors, mechanical rice transplanters, harvesters, etc. There is hope as many Goan engineers and other professionals are transitioning to farming. Areas like Santo Estevão, Calapur, Cortalim, Chicalim, Curtorim, Chinchinim, Navelim, and Betalbatim are witnessing resurgence in agriculture. These efforts, aimed at preserving Goa's agricultural heritage, safeguard Goa's identity for future generations.
The writer is a scientist and a freelancer
