Grill seeker’s paradise found ‘There’

Set amid the serene village lanes of Verla-Parra, this smoky little gem invites you to slow down, dig in, and stay awhile. The Goan explores ‘There: BBQ | GRILL | BAR’, where fire-kissed flavours meet soulful hospitality, and a childhood dream burns bright under the shade of coconut trees

Veda Raut | JULY 06, 2025, 12:54 AM IST
Grill seeker’s paradise found ‘There’

In a quiet corner of Verla-Parra, where coconut trees sway over sun-dappled fields and village life moves to a slower rhythm, there’s a place where fire meets flavour, and strangers leave as friends. ‘There: BBQ | GRILL | BAR’ doesn’t feel like a place you find, it feels like a place that finds you. Maybe it's the woodsmoke drifting gently through the trees, maybe it’s the warm glow of lights, or the laughter that spills from tables beneath a starlit sky. Or maybe, it’s the quiet assurance that this is a space built with heart.

But behind this glowing atmosphere is a story of grit, grace, and quiet perseverance.

Alton Desouza, the man behind ‘There’, speaks with a calm rootedness that mirrors the space he has built. “Opening a restaurant was a childhood dream,” he says. “Even as a boy, I was fiercely independent and drawn to cooking. I always knew I’d end up doing something on my own.”

After completing his hospitality management in Goa, Alton’s dream took shape in December 2019, just months before the world changed. “We had just started, hired staff, and got our supplies. And then the lockdown hit,” he recalls. “Everything slowed down. I thought the dream might slip away.”

But out of that crisis, something beautiful emerged. With the support of close friends, the newly opened restaurant transformed into a food relief kitchen. Under the initiative ‘Give For Goa’, Alton and his team began serving nutritious meals to those who needed them most during the pandemic. “It gave the space a purpose during a time of uncertainty,” he says. “We were all struggling, but we found a way to help.”

Eventually, as the world found its rhythm again, so did ‘There’. First through takeaways and deliveries, then, when the time was right, through dine-in service.

The restaurant’s name itself has a story, simple, cheeky, and full of affection. “Whenever someone asked me where I was opening the place, I’d point and say, ‘There,’” Alton laughs. “Eventually, the name just stuck. It felt right.”

Everything about ‘There’ exudes that same quiet confidence and home-grown warmth. Nestled in Alton’s ancestral village, the space was designed to feel like home, starting with just a few tables and growing into an open-air garden seating area shaded by a bamboo roof and surrounded by coconut trees. “This village is where I was born, where I belong,” Alton says. “It felt natural to build something here.”

The menu is as soulful as the space. At its heart is a passion for smoked meats, bold grills, and comfort food reimagined. All cold cuts and smoked meats, from the smoked brisket and tenderloin pastrami to the espresso bacon and five-spice duck, are cured and crafted in-house using a clay smoker and firewood from fruit trees. It’s an old-school art Alton has made his own.

“We believe in quality for the right price,” he says. “That’s why we even import ingredients when needed, to get the flavours just right.” Alongside the smoked offerings are juicy burgers, hearty steaks like the dry-aged rib-eye and T-bone, and seasonal specials that showcase playful creativity.

What sets ‘There’ apart is its creativity and respect for Goan traditions. One such dish is the Mackerel Pâté, served with poie, a local Goan bread. “Goa’s known for smoked mackerel, but it can be messy to eat,” Alton explains. “So we decided to turn it into a pâté, more elegant, easier to share.” Another favourite is the Black Garlic Prawns, where the complex sweetness of black garlic deepens the dish's umami glow.

And don’t miss dessert. Their Dark Chocolate Whiskey Mousse with Feuilletine, a delicate crunch of caramelised crepe bits folded into rich, boozy mousse, is a fitting finale to a night of slow sips and shared plates.

But what truly brings ‘There’ to life is the team. “Most of our staff are from the village or nearby,” Alton says with pride. “Some started with us and have gone abroad. They carry a part of this place with them.” He believes a strong team is built not just on skill but on kindness, communication, and trust. “That’s what makes guests feel welcome, not only the food, but the people behind it.”

On social media, ‘There’ shines in snapshots, glowing ribs under golden hour, burgers stacked like sculptures, guests laughing beneath starlit skies. But even beyond the pictures, it’s the feeling of belonging that lingers.

At ‘There’, time slows down, conversations stretch long, and second helpings come easy. Whether you’re wandering in from Mapusa or discovering it for the first time, you’re made to feel like you’ve always belonged.

And once you’ve been ‘There’, you’ll always want to go back.

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