GI nomination takes an object from local to global level, giving it recognition on a bigger platform, and creating a demand in the international market, thus boosting the State economy. The Goan explores three probable entrants to the list – Poi, Doce and Sann
Goa is a unique place on the map of India – with its geographical location consisting of the islands, beaches, rivers, forests, hills and plateaus. What sets it apart from the rest of the States is also its cosmopolitan nature and hybrid culture. Having succeeded in getting geographical Indexes for 15 of the local objects including cashew feni, Harmal chilli, Moira banana, Mankurad mango, Satshiro bhendi, Bebinca, Agassaim brinjal, Taleigao brinjal, Hilario mango, cashew apple, Musurad mango, rice, khaje etc, Goa Science and Technology Board has now applied for three more items – Poi (a type of local bread), broom made of coconut palm leaves and Doce (a sweet locally prepared during festivals, especially Christmas) for GI tag. After sending a proposal asking for a GI tag for Goan sea salt some time back, now the process for applying GI tag for these three items have been initiated, according to the nodal officer Dipak Parab.
The Goan pav
We all have enjoyed the hot aroma of the freshly baked pav, poi, undo and kakon. Kakan is yet another Goan speciality, a variety of bread baked in round shape, to be eaten dipped in black tea (futi cha). In the good old days, doctors recommended poi to patients with diabetes, as it contained wheat bran (kundo) and wheat flour. Now this poi is also made of maida (white flour) and there’s no kundo (fibre content) in it. Still people in Goa prefer buying poi for evening supper, considering it healthier than pav/bread. It is tastier too. The golden crust, soft texture with a hollow pocket inside, poi is made of wheat flour that is fermented with coconut toddy, and locally baked in traditional wooden fire ovens with a window to place the trays inside it. Now, yeast has replaced the toddy, as very few toddy tappers continue the vocation.
Goan villages still have these ancient, traditional bakeries that make multiple varieties of breads and poders selling the fresh lot on bicycles. The villagers wake up to their pom pom alarms. Some of the cafes and restaurants still stick to these traditional varieties to pair with their bhaji, curry or xacuti. Bread is a prominent part of Goan cuisine, introduced by the Portuguese in the early 17th century, and today, Goa is the only State in India with traditional leavened breads. This poi deserves official recognition because it is an ancient nutrient, rich in bran, naturally gut-friendly and wholesome alternative to regular white bread.
Traditional broom
The second object that has been proposed is a locally handcrafted broom, which is going extinct, as only a handful of rural artisans continue this traditional vocational craft. The broom has multiple names – sann, saran, zhadu, kersuni, salathi etc. This ‘sann’ or ‘saran’ was in use in the past to clean the cow dung floors, front yards and backyards in rural homes apart from cleaning markets, roads and washrooms.
“We used to use this ‘sann’ until it deteriorated and exhausted completely,” recalls an elderly lady in South Goa. She adds that in Hindu homes, a broom was must while entering a new house. During auspicious occasions like Laxmi Pujan during Diwali a broom is worshipped as ‘Laxmi’ considering the belief that it brings prosperity in the home.
These local brooms, made of ‘hir’ (dried sticks from coconut leaves) are not much seen in the cities in the absence of ‘angan’ in most homes. The rural artisans in Goa have still maintained the art of making brooms but the new generation and modern lifestyle has pushed this broom to the corner.
“Around 200 sticks are required to make one broom. A seasoned artisan sits for the entire day to make two brooms. Currently the brooms available in the market are not made in Goa, but most of them are bought and brought from Sindhudurg for sale in Goa. Only few artisans in Goa continue to make such brooms,” mentions a vendor in Margao market.
Though the artisans have stopped or reduced the production of such brooms in Goa, the demand has not reduced. The village artisans come to the cities to sell their brooms, and each broom fetches Rs 250 to 300 per piece. One broom lasts for a year minimum. Goans used to buy brooms at the Purumentache fest but now these eco-friendly and biodegradable brooms have been replaced by plastic ones that resemble the natural ‘hir’.
Doce de Grao
The third proposal sent for GI is that of Doce de Grao (dosh), a typical Goan sweet, traditionally cooked and distributed during Christmas, weddings, Saibin and other festive occasions. Prepared with besan (gram flour), sugar, coconut, ghee and cardamom, it is soft and lasts for only a few days before becoming rancid. Unlike ‘Mohanthal’ which otherwise has similar ingredients, Doce tastes different because of the grated coconut added to it. The soft sweet melts when placed on the tongue and the taste lingers.
Doce is part of the Goan Christmas ‘kuswar’ (a platter full of a variety of sweets that’s exchanged with each other). Easy to make, it has very few ingredients, which are commonly available in every home. Chana dal is boiled until cooked soft, grounded into a paste, mixed with grated coconut and sugar, and stirred constantly over a slow fire with ghee until it leaves the sides of the pan, then rolled out while hot and decorated with fork designs before cutting into diamond shapes.
