Hidden stories behind Goa's villages- 3

Dr ALVARINHO J LUIS | 10 hours ago

Goa's villages are renowned for their rich historical tapestry. Nestled on the banks of the Kushavati River in South Goa, Chandor—once the ancient capital Chandrapura—remains one of the region's most evocative villages. It thrived as the seat of power under the Bhojarulers and later the Kadamba dynasty, serving as a bustling port and trade hub.

Today, only faint echoes of that glory survive: ruins of an old fort, an 11th-century Shiva temple site, and a majestic Nandi bull sculpture. Yet the village pulses with legend, most famously the Queen's curse from Kadamba times. Folklore tells of a grieving queen—after her king died in battle and her subjects' betrayal—who shattered her bangles, stamped her feet on a stone (still visible near St Tiago Chapel), and cursed incoming brides to widowhood while blessing those who left. This enduring belief has shaped local customs, prompting many men to seek partners elsewhere. Chandor's heritage shines through its grand Indo-Portuguese mansions, including the sprawling 17th-century Braganza House, with its antique treasures and ornate wings, and the pre-Portuguese Sara Fernandes House, a timeless window into Goan elegance.

Originally a stronghold of the Sultanate of Bijapur (built by Adil Shah as Shahpura), Chapora Fort was captured and rebuilt by the Portuguese in 1717, featuring bastions, ramparts, and secret underground passages for defense. Perched dramatically above the Chapora River, its rugged ruins offer stunning panoramic views of the Arabian Sea, Vagator, and Morjim—immortalised in the iconic Bollywood film Dil Chahta Hai. It is a perfect blend of history, cinematic charm, and tranquil natural beauty!

Faith and natural beauty

Nestled in Pernem taluka of North Goa, Chopdem is a serene, unspoiled village perched just north of the enchanting Chapora River. Far removed from the crowds and commercial buzz of Goa's popular tourist spots, it offers a tranquil retreat enveloped in lush greenery and authentic village rhythms. Chopdem is especially celebrated for its ancient, culturally rich temples that showcase the region's deep spiritual legacy, including the revered Bhumika Temple, the historic pre-Portuguese Vetal Temple, Garudi Temple, Rampurush Devasthan, and several others that continue to draw devotees and preserve timeless traditions.

Curtorim, affectionately called the granary of Salcete, is renowned for its lush paddy fields, expansive wetlands, serene lakes, and thriving agriculture that has sustained for generations. The village features the historic 16th-century St Alex Church, prime birdwatching at Raina Birding Point, and the miraculous Handi Khuris chapel—a revered Holy Cross near the sluice gate that draws devotees from afar. Devotees bring food offerings, shared communally in a spirit of gratitude. The Xetkaranchem Fest, first observed on September 5, 1977, is now fixed on August 20. The celebration includes farmers ritually blocking the lake channel for blessings, followed by its release to irrigate fields and herald a bountiful new harvest.

Nestled beyond the Colvale bridge in North Goa, Dhargalim offers a blissful sense of isolation amid lush green meadows, far away from the densely populated regions of Tiswadi, Salcete, and Bardez. With a predominantly Hindu population (around 70%), the village enjoys peaceful ties with neighboring hamlets like Tuem, Nagzar, Chandel, Varkhand, Halarnem, and Ozri. Its most revered shrine is the nearly 200-year-old Shantadurga Temple, built by the Vaishya community of Mapusa, complete with an extensive agrashala. The vibrant Gulalotsav festival, held in April shortly after Holi, draws throngs of devotees from across Goa. Another notable site is the Dadeshwar Temple. From freedom fighters and actors to artisans and sportsmen, Dhargalim proudly nurtures a remarkable array of multifaceted talents.

Goa's hidden heritage gems

Dabolim, a modest yet vital town in South Goa, is best known as the home of Goa's first International Airport (Dabolim Airport) and the strategically important naval airbase INS Hansa. Originally built in 1955 by the Estado da Índia Portuguesa on 249 acres, Dabolim Airport (Aeroporto de Dabolim) was later renamed Aeroporto General Bénard Guedes. It served as the primary hub for Transportes Aéreos da Índia Portuguesa airline, linking Goa to Daman, Diu, Karachi, Mozambique, and Portuguese Timor.

In contrast, Dona Paula—a scenic spot near Panaji—earns its nickname as a Lover's Paradise thanks to its breathtaking viewpoint, jetty, and water sports amid panoramic vistas of the Arabian Sea and the Mandovi-Zuari river confluence. Featured in the film Singham, the site was originally called Oddavel before being renamed after Dona Paula de Menezes, the daughter of a Portuguese viceroy, who, according to legend, leapt to her death here after being forbidden to marry a local fisherman. Nearby attractions include Cabo Raj Bhavan, the NIO, and tranquil Vainguinim Beach.

Davorlim, a charming village in Salcete taluka, derives its name from the Konkani language. Though the exact origin remains debated, one popular theory links it to Davor, possibly referring to a historical community, a specific dwelling, or a place associated with Davor. An alternative etymology connects Dav or Dava to medicine or herbs, suggesting the area was once renowned for medicinal plants. The suffix “-lim,” a typical Konkani diminutive, denotes a small settlement or village.

Gandaulim, a picturesque village on the western bank of the Cumbarjua Canal in Tiswadi, carries a rich and intriguing history. Known in Konkani as Gaundale, it is believed to have originated as a settlement of the ancient Gaudde community. The village once featured the Gandaulim Fort (originally Gondolechopar), a 16th-century Portuguese military outpost constructed to defend the area. Remarkably, historians suggest Croatian shipbuilders—renowned for their maritime expertise—may have been brought by the Portuguese or settled here to aid in ship construction. The fort was unfortunately demolished in the early 21st century for a road-widening project. The historic Igreja de São Brás (Church of St Blaise), built between 1541 and 1563, is thought to be a smaller replica of the famous Sveti Vlaho Church in Dubrovnik, Croatia.

To be continued

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