In the colourful world of global trade, some products have a strong connection to where they come from. They’re deeply rooted in tradition and history, often coming from certain places known for their unique qualities. In Goa, for example, products like Cashew Feni and Mankurad mango are famous. Each one tells a story of its origins. But despite being important to Goa’s culture and economy, many of these special products don’t meet the standards needed for Geographical Indication (GI).
Geographical Indication, or GI, is like a special label given to products from a certain place. It shows that the product has special qualities or characteristics because of where it’s from. This label assures customers that the product is genuine and of good quality. But in Goa, the way GI is used shows that there’s a lot of potential that hasn’t been realised yet.
According to Miguel Braganza, a horticulturist and member of the Botanical Society of Goa, the inception of GI registration in the region dates back to the efforts of JK Dadoo, the former Development Commissioner. The aim was noble: to secure recognition and premium value for Goan products while ensuring their quality and distinctiveness. The initial success came with the registration of Cashew Feni in the mid-2000s, promising a brighter future for Goa’s iconic spirit. However, the vision of leveraging GI for market expansion and product standardisation remains largely unrealised.
Braganza explains, “The benefit of a GI in terms of marketability across India or the world has not come to fruition.”
Despite the GI tag, Feni continues to be classified as country liquor, limiting its sales to within the boundaries of the State. This restrictive classification stifles the export potential of Feni, depriving producers of valuable opportunities in international markets.
Moreover, the lack of standardisation in production processes and quality parameters poses a significant hurdle. Braganza notes, “The taste, the flavour, the aroma—those are not standardised.”
This variance in quality undermines consumer trust and hampers the ability of Goan products to command premium prices in the market.
“To draw a parallel, GI is similar to borders of nations being drawn,” says Mac Vaz, Founder President, Cashew Feni Distillers and Bottlers Association.
“Just as it is the responsibility of the government and military to protect borders, stakeholders and state governments need to assert against betrayals within or invaders from outside,” he added.
However, the issue extends beyond Feni, encompassing a myriad of other products such as Harmal Chilies and Khaje. Despite being bestowed with GI status, awareness and enforcement remain sorely lacking at the grassroots level. If the farmer/producer is to benefit, they have to know there is a benefit to it. Without effective dissemination of information and robust enforcement mechanisms, the GI tag remains a hollow accolade, devoid of tangible benefits for local producers.
There seems to be a need for a comprehensive approach to GI implementation, involving multiple stakeholders and regulatory bodies. Miguel Braganza suggests, “There has to be some sort of mechanism...whether agencies like the Food and Drugs Administration (FDA) or the Agriculture Department should be involved in monitoring.”
In contrast, he draws attention to the success stories of GI tags in other regions like Maharashtra, where concerted efforts by farmers have led to tangible benefits. He illustrates the case of Alphonso (Hapus) mangoe, where GI registration helped protect farmers from external competition and ensure the authenticity of the product.
Sanju Parsekar, a seasoned local fruit vendor at Mapusa market reveals that people from Ratnagiri and Vengurla are passing off Hapus mangoes as Mankurad mangoes, and it’s causing quite a stir in the market.
“The trouble is, unsuspecting customers can’t tell the difference until they eat the fruit. Meanwhile, those of us selling genuine local produce bear the brunt of this deception. These outside sellers offer their mangoes at a lower price, luring in buyers who are unaware of the switch. The sad part is, the quality of these impostor mangoes is often sub-par, with many being spoiled on the inside. Despite our warnings, people still fall for the bait. But the regret sets in the next day when they realise they’ve been duped,” Parsekar added.
While GI tags hold immense potential to preserve and promote Goa’s cultural heritage, their effectiveness hinges on robust enforcement, awareness among stakeholders, and a commitment to quality and authenticity. Only through collective action and commitment can Goa’s rich heritage be preserved and celebrated on a global stage.
