After nearly seven years, the humble 'pao' takes a modest price hike. The All Goa Bakers and Confectioners Association announced a one rupee price hike of 'pao'. Effective from October 2, the price per unit of 'pao' will be Rs 5. Considering the rate of inflation and rising production cost, the hike is well justified, but along with that, there are a host of issues that have been highlighted by the Association, issues that could sound like a death knell for this traditional Goan profession. The identity of the world-famous Goan 'pao' is under threat and it’s high time the government must step in.
The social change that is being brought about by the migration of the younger generation to Europe looking for greener pastures, and the upward mobility of life have been the core factors that have allowed an intrusion of migrants into the Goa bakery business. Bakeries that have been rendered unviable or have been shut due to manpower and other constraints have been let out to migrants, giving the traditional occupation an unsavoury spin.
Pao-making is no longer considered a profitable venture by traditional bakers because there are a host of inherent issues. Traditional bakers are left in the lurch because migrants who have adopted bakeries have sought to redefine the 'pao', both in terms of texture and volume. The essence of the traditional 'pao' has faded over time because there have been compromises on ingredients and the production process.
While the discourse is about bhumiputras and the government's quest to identify them and provide housing, the bhumiputra baker finds himself nudged out and helplessly lost to the competition. Much is expected of the government to intervene and salvage their sinking businesses and revive this dying tradition. If the migrants have snatched away 90 per cent of the business, the government has done nothing to restore the parity and pride of Goa's humble 'pao'.
Traditional businesses are slipping away from Goan hands, and when the government is talking about startups and promoting enterprise, it cannot ignore these crippled traditional businesses because they have a deep-rooted connection with Goa's identity. There is an urgent need to look at the charter of demands put up by the Association, including the crucial points on subsidizing machinery, raw material, firewood and a support price, besides financial assistance.
At a time when corporates have set up shops in Goa and franchises are fast mushrooming, the Goan baker remains completely marginalized, crippled and fallen out of the competition because there is no support base. The government may be handicapped in stopping the flow of bakery products from other States, but the least it can do is help the locals in competing and making their business model viable.
The 2013 government under the leadership of Manohar Parrikar made a feeble attempt to provide some relief with a scheme under the Goa Handicrafts, Rural & Small Scale Industries Development Corporation, but it didn't take off because the government of the day was not in a position to address the host of issues that cropped up. Around eight years later, those in this traditional occupation are left high and dry while the rest of the world has moved on.
It's high time that Goa makes a conscious effort to identify the bhumiputra baker and revive the long tradition of baking 'pao', 'undho', 'poie' and 'kakon'. When we talk of the Goan identity, we cannot keep the State’s traditions out.
