Goa’s unique Navratri

PANAJI

Temples across Goa are ready for the Sharadiya Navratri celebrations, which begin with Ghatasthapana on the first day. For nine days, rituals, bhajans, kirtans, cultural programmes, and the Makharotsav are held. In the evenings, temple courtyards come alive with dandiya raas and garba dances. Public grounds also host large gatherings where people celebrate through the night.  

Those new to dandiya and garba need not worry. Workshops are organised to teach the steps, such as the one at the Shrikrishna Temple in Calconda, Margao. The workshop, arranged by Deepali Sawal and the temple committee, runs for five days. Dance experts Chetan and Aarti Borkar guide participants, and the event ends with a group performance showcasing unity and festive spirit.  

Navratri is celebrated differently across India, from Goa, Maharashtra and Gujarat to Bengal, Odisha, Manipur, Uttar Pradesh, and Madhya Pradesh. In Goa, the focus is on rituals and cultural traditions. Many temples here perform Deep Pujan and Durga Pujan a day before Ghatasthapana. During the nine days, Navchandi Paath, havans, bhajans, kirtans, Dashavatari plays, Fugdi and Ghumat Aarti competitions, along with dandiya, are common.  

Goa’s Gujarati community has kept garba alive for decades in cities like Margao, Panaji, Ponda and Vasco. Bengalis in Goa also continue their Durga Puja traditions, both at home and in public. In Maharashtra, Navratri ends on the 10th day with Vijayadashami, a very auspicious day for buying gold, property, vehicles, or starting new ventures.  

Goa is often called a cultural melting pot, with people from many states adding their own rituals. For instance, Ponda resident Kirti Kulkarni, who has lived in Goa for 30 years, says, “We celebrate Navratri at home with Ghatasthapana. The ghata, a clay pot filled with water, covered with mango leaves and a coconut, symbolises Mother Earth. We sow grains in the soil on Ashwin Shuddha Pratipada and keep a diya burning for nine days. Each family member takes turns to keep the flame alive. We also visit local Devi temples for the Makharotsava.”  

Goa’s unique Makharotsav  

One of Goa’s most striking traditions is the Makharotsav. The goddess is placed in a decorated wooden makhar (a swinging structure) for nine days. Every evening, devotees gather as bhajans, kirtans, and aartis are performed. The goddess, adorned with new clothes, ornaments and flowers each day, is gently swung in the makhar while devotees sing accompanied by the mrudang and zhanz.  

Popular temples such as Shree Mahalasa Narayani (Mardol), Shree Shantadurga (Kavlem), Shree Ramnath, Shri Mahalaxmi (Bandora), Shree Navdurga (Borim and Madkai), and Shree Kamakshi (Shiroda) draw huge crowds for this ritual.  

The tradition is over 500 years old. When Portuguese rulers destroyed temples in Salcete, Tiswadi and Bardez, idols were moved to safer places in Ponda, then known as Antruz Mahal. The Makharotsav symbolises this shifting of the goddess to safety, remembered through the ritual of swinging the deity.  

Nine forms of the goddess  

During Navratri in Goa, Goddess Durga is worshipped in nine forms: Santeri, Mahalasa-Narayani, Shantadurga, Navdurga, Mahalaxmi, Saraswati, Kamakshi, Vijayadurga and Mauli. On Ashwin Shuddha Saptami, Ashtami and Navami, she is revered as Maha Kali, Maha Saraswati, and Maha Laxmi. The ninth day, Maha Navami, is considered very important. On this night, the Makharotsav ends, and mahaprasad is distributed.  

The festival is called Navratra in Goa. It runs for nine days, from Ashwin Shuddha Pratipada to Navami. Legend says Goddess Durga fought the demon king Mahishasur for nine days and nine nights, taking a different form each day. Worshipping her nine avatars keeps this story alive.  

Devi’s victory over demons  

The goddess is also called Mahishasur Mardini, Shakti Devi, or Nav Durga. On Vijayadashami, the 10th day, her victory is celebrated. Apart from Mahishasur, she is believed to have slain demons like Chand, Mund, Shumbh, Nishumbh, and Rakta Beej, which is why she is also called Chamundeshwari. Her nine forms are: Shailputri, Brahmacharini, Chandraghanta, Kushmanda, Skandamata, Katyayani, Kalaratri, Mahagauri, and Siddhidatri. Each day, devotees dress her in the colour linked to that form.  

Celebrations in other states  

In West Bengal, Navratri is celebrated as Durga Puja, where Durga, Mahalakshmi, Saraswati, Ganapati and Kartikeya are worshipped. Gujarat is famous for all-night garba and folk performances. In rural Maharashtra, large pandals are set up, especially in Sindhudurg, Ratnagiri, Raigad and Kolhapur, where rituals, aartis, and cultural events continue till late.