A vow of walking to Old Goa that she had made in return fora favour received, found Esmeralda along with a group of 12 women trekkingalong the Nuvem-Verna-Pilar route during the novena of St Francis Xavier lastyear. They are not the only ones who undertake the pilgrimage. Several othergroups from Arlem, Nuvem, Cortalim and Ambelim “ the people from Ambelim arejoined by people from Assolna and Velim and total to 200 “ are found wayfaringwith the agenda of penance or the fulfilment of a promise.
The definition of pilgrimage gets upped several notches forthe many other groups that make their way on foot from places outside the statesuch as Gadhinglaj, Ajra, Belewadi, Kolhapur and Belgaum. The 200-member groupfrom Belewadi, almost 250 kilometres from Goa, is led by Guru Santaji Lobo, asaffron-clad layman with a peaceful visage. He has been walking every year for30 years now. “All of the group members are non-Catholics who revere StFrancis. We will leave on November 28 at 10 am from the Prathana Kendra, andmake the first stop in Ajra,” he says. People from Kolhapur and Ichalkargileave on November 27 and join the group from Gadhinglaj led by Fr Augustine SJwhich leaves on November 28. The pilgrimage from Ajra was first started by FrSwami Prabhudhar in 1982 and is now led by Fr Joe Monteiro SJ. The group fromBelgaum led by Fr Paul Fernandes SJ, is joined by faithful from Pune andAhmednagar, and leaves on November 29.
“The faith is commendable,” says Fr Savio Barreto, rector ofthe Basilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa. The pilgrims walk for 25-40 kilometres aday, stopping for breaks and to cook meals. Kind souls in the villages theyhalt at give them shelter for the night. At other times, they spend the nightin a school, church or chapel. Groceries and luggage are carried by a vehiclewhich moves ahead. Food is cooked on wood fire or kerosene stoves; forrelieving themselves, men use one side of the forest and women the other. WhileGuru Santaji’s group sings devotional bhajans on the way, the other groups singhymns. Every day for all groups ends with mass. “The first day is treacherouson the body. Our bones ache, and we get exhausted. But the tiredness disappearsin the days that follow; it is like walking to Jerusalem.” says Santaji.Pilgrims describe the first glimpse of the top of the Basilica when they reachDivar as a sight that fills them with exhilaration.
All the groups reach Old Goa on December 2. A candlelightprocession by the faithful “ a total of 1000 “ enters the Arch of Vasco da Gamaat 11am and proceeds to the Basilica where a special mass is held for them.Rejuvenated with faith, they make their way home by bus after the feast.
