Chefs across the world have been flocking to the fast-casual category for a while now. Goa has been no different. With quick-service concepts that aim to bring healthy, affordable fare to the table, restaurants are now aiming to improve the way people eat.
At Cluck Tales, an all-day dining restaurant in Panaji, meal times are a culinary treat with all the right ingredients. Guests can customize their own meals, selecting a marinade for their lava stone slow-cooked spatchcock (juicy chicken that's split open and grilled), a dip, and side of their choice. Marinades include fresh herb and palm vinegar (no, its not your typical cafreal), balsamic and scallion, Moroccan harissa (this one is a little on the spicier side), lahsooni chicken and a fruity pineapple and coriander. There is even a chef's special that changes everyday. “I try to offer something different here; introduce a new flavour combination to the people if I may,” says Da Cruz of her peri peri chicken and chicken teriyaki.
There are six dips ranging from a red onion marmalade to a smoked garlic aioli and seven sides including a creamy potato and chive salad, a tangy apple slaw and fresh salad. The jalapeno jam is a huge fan favourite. “And my own secret recipe,” says Da Cruz of the sweet and spicy but addictively delicious jam.
Whether it's an intentionally created menu to educate customers on what flavours pair best together or just something that leaves the decision-making in the hands of the customers, the process is certainly delightful and the food, a wholesome culinary treat that's got real depth of flavour.
And that's just the main course. Cluck Tales also offers starters like soups, empanadas, chicken chowder, burgers and gyros (wraps made out of whole meal flour or ciabattas and therefore more healthy and nutritious ), a vegetarian menu including durum wheat pasta, soya bolognese, roast creole vegetable and a locally-grown vegetable tagine, a kids menu served with chips, a drink, choice of side and dessert.
An interesting option is a fresh baked black bun served with tofu and sweet chilli sauce. The dough is flavoured with cocoa and dark soy sauce to give it its distinct look and flavor. They even offer a selection of freshly baked artisan breads “ Focaccia, Ciabatta, Baguettes and more “ served with a selection of accompaniments.
All of this at really affordable prices. A combo meal for four costs just Rs 625 (taxes included). And considering its location (Cluck Tales is situation just across the road from Don Bosco's in Panjim), this is ideal. “It's all about wholesome, hearty meals,” says Da Cruz who is as generous with her portions and she is with her repertoire of knowledge. “People don't like to share their recipes. Even if they give it to you, they leave out/misdirect on some key ingredients. I love sharing what I have learnt. There is no point taking my recipes to my grave,” she adds.
In the kitchen, however (It is an open kitchen that allows guests and visitors a peek into kitchen spaces that are spotlessly clean, hygienic and organized), she is a tough taskmaster, demanding the same perfection, military-like discipline and attention to detail from her chefs that she herself practices. “Being a chef has become increasingly trendy nowadays thanks to the many television shows, but if you don't have the passion for it, you will never survive,” says Da Cruz adding, “It's physically demanding and mentally challenging work.” But Da Cruz loves it. In fact, she thrives on it as is evident from the way her face lights up whenever she lays eyes on a customer heartily digging into one of her hot meals, or closing their eyes in joy while diving headfirst into chocolate heaven. Because that's exactly where Da Cruz's desserts will take you.
From a sinfully-rich almond mandorella to choux éclairs filled with cream or custard filling and brushed with chocolate ganache to a baked chocolate tart, if you are craving a sweet treat to end the day or even if you are just looking for an indulgent pick-me-up, these desserts are sure to hit the spot. Incidentally, Cluck Tales is probably one of the only places in Goa that serves the Pastéis de Nata, a melt-in-your-mouth egg custard tart that is the staple food of the sweet toothed Portuguese.
Chefs in quick service restaurants (QSR) are nothing new. Culinary Institute of America graduate Steve Ells opened the first Chipotle more than 20 years ago. Tom Colicchio’s ’wichcraft chain is 12 years old. What’s interesting about the latest crop of chefs, however, is their attitude toward the industry and their determination to change the definition of fast food, one organic, locally-sourced, fresh ingredient at a time.
And that's exactly what Manjula Da Cruz aims to do.
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Born and raised in Velim in South Goa, although she lived in Panjim for all the years she can remember, Da Cruz moved to Mumbai to start off her career in the hospitality industry with the Taj group of hotels
She owes most of what she is today to the Taj and her mentor Satish Arora and Dom Moraes and Leela Naidu (whom she considers to be her second parents). Her chocolate chill marinade is dedicated to them.
Then moved to the UK where she spent 22 years, learning, cooking and teaching her craft
While there, she realized that many of the Indian chefs knew to cook well but were not conversant in the English language. As a result, they did not earn as much as the English-speaking people. She proposed to the QCA whichh regulates UK's examination system that the syllabus be revised and marks be allotted based on practical knowledge allowing students to converse in their local language Hindi. Da Cruz herself offered to facililate it and it made a world of difference.
Back in Goa, Da Cruz is looking forward to offering a different culinary experience to the people of Goa at Cluck Tales.
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Lava stone cooking method allows to distribute the heat to the food better, requires minimal use of oil while the stone absorbs the soot ensuring the food cooked is healthier and more flavorsome. The lava stones have been especially imported from Malaysia.
