In 2010, ‘Time’ magazine produced a list of ‘Top 10 Ridiculously Strong Drinks’ and feni was one of them. The writeup accompanying a picture of a cashew feni bottle read,
“The strong-smelling liquor, made from cashew apples or coconut sap, is a trademark of the region. Those with a low alcohol tolerance, however, might want to stick with something simpler ...” No one is quite sure why this region-specific drink is not as popular
as cachaça (Caipirinha) is in Brazil. That it is ridiculously strong could be one of the reasons. The other could be the strong smell that literally oozes out of the body of the drinker. The fact that it is known as ‘country liquor’ which is generally associated with the labour class could be the third reason. And then, everybody who makes feni his or her
own way and this means there is no
standardization of the liquor. The
truth is, feni is not a popular drink
in the state and consumption is
dropping with every passing year,
despite the best efforts of a few producers to stem the decline.
On Monday, the government introduced a bill in the Assembly
to give feni ‘heritage status’. Perhaps, this move is 50 years too
late and has come at a time when drinkers have already moved
to whisky, vodka and tequila, all of which are a lot more cool
than feni. And then, there is beer which is more popular than
even water, in this part of the country. The bar table is crowded
and feni seems to be fighting a losing battle for space. It has
quietly slipped out of the cultural
sphere and is no longer attached to
being Goan, like fish curry and rice.
Those who want to promote feni are
struggling to make a strong, harsh
and smelly liquor acceptable to locals
and tourists. They are literally
trying to take the cashew out of
the feni. It’s a nightmarish task because
without the odour, cashew
feni would lose it character. It’s a tough and thankless job.
The battle to give feni respectability and a place in the sun is
not even half won. The government has taken the first step by
demonstrating its intention to give it heritage status. Step two
would involve standardization of the drink and the government
is bound to face resistance from small traditional producers
who have been brewing the drink for generations. The
process isn’t very complicated, but it needs to be standardized
and for this to happen, the government will have to step in.
Ideally, liquor production ought to be left to breweries and local
producers with the market as a marker. But in the case of
feni, which sits at the bottom of the heap, help from the state
is required.
