The common man’s ‘pao’ is in the news again because it’s going to be dearer by Rs 1 from next month. There’s no denying the fact that local bread is going through tough times because of the spiralling prices of raw material (flour), firewood and labour. The marginal hike is justified against this background, but while doing so, there are a host of issues that need to be streamlined if the legacy of the Portuguese-inspired ‘pao’ has to live on.
Inflation has been rising at a quick pace and the high standard of living in Goa is one of the highest among States. Against this backdrop, a slight hike should not pinch Goan pockets. But while this is being done, the governing bodies of bakers must ensure that justice is being done to the consumer in terms of quality and quantity. And a lot needs to change.
Pao is closely entwined with people’s lifestyle and has been a part of Goa’s folklore since times immemorial. Goa continues to wake up to the arrival of the bakerman in the wee hours of the morning and pao proudly makes its presence felt at every dining table. But sadly, it is currently fighting an identity crisis of sorts and is no longer the bread of yore. Bakers not only have downsized it to 30-gram instead of the stipulated 50-gram but have also significantly changed its character and composition.
A traditional nutritious accompaniment for breakfast, the ‘pao’ is struggling to survive on the Goan platter because a few locals and a vast section of migrants who have taken up the ‘Geomkar job’ of baking have exploited the situation fully. In the absence of any controls, there is no uniformity on the quantum of commercial yeast that is used to leaven the bread. And the ‘pao’ is slowly turning to be an assortment of flour and other contaminants which could pose a long-term health hazard.
The traditional Goan ‘pao’ was legendary in a way because local toddy was used as a source of natural yeast giving it a distinctive character. With availability of toddy an issue now, substitutes are being used indiscriminately with the end product coming in different assortments and textures.
Bakers remain a neglected lot and they are one of the few businesses that had Goenkarponn etched on it. It’s time the government step in and support the cause of bakers. The All Goa Bakers and Confectioners Association plan to meet Chief Minister Pramod Sawant to discuss issues affecting their business, and rightly so. But they must also put a plan in place to restore the ‘pao’ to its original glory instead of being a
careless bystander to malpractices. While Goans should accept the price hike in the right spirit, all the associations must take the responsibility of restoring the humble Goan ‘pao’ to its
former glory.
