MAPUSA
Politics and cuisine have found an unusual intersection in Goa’s tourism hub, as Calangute MLA Michael Lobo has stirred controversy by stating that the sale of idli-sambar in beach shacks is causing a decline in foreign tourists in the State, urging a stronger push for Goan cuisine instead.
The legislator’s stance has left many shack operators baffled, as they insist that the evolving tourism demographic dictates what’s on their menus, not political directives.
Shack operators along the Calangute-Baga belt argue that the food they serve is a reflection of shifting tourist preferences.
Gone are the days when European tourists dominated the coastline, demanding English breakfasts and continental delicacies. Now, with Indian tourists making up the majority of visitors, shack owners say they must cater to their tastes “ even if that means serving South Indian staples like idli-sambar.
“I used to serve English food alongside Goan, Indian, Chinese, and Continental cuisine because we had a lot of European tourists. But times have changed, and so have our customers. Since Indians have overtaken foreigners in numbers, idli-sambar is definitely on our menu,” said a shack owner in Calangute, speaking on condition of anonymity.
The MLA, however, has taken a strong stance against this culinary shift, urging the tourism department to revoke the licences of shacks that sublet to outsiders and fail to promote Goan cuisine.
His comments have sparked heated discussions among shack operators and tourism stakeholders, who argue that they are merely responding to market demand.
General Secretary of the Shack Owners’ Welfare Society, John Lobo, acknowledged that while not all shacks serve idli-sambar, some have included it to satisfy their Indian clientele. “We can’t help it. Most of our customers are Indians, so we have to serve what they want. But that doesn’t mean we don’t promote Goan cuisine. Along with Goan food, we also cater to other tastes,” Lobo said.
The culinary divide extends beyond Calangute.
In North Goa’s Mandrem and Morjim, where Russian tourists are more prevalent, shacks have adapted by serving Russian dishes alongside Indian, Chinese, and Continental fare.
“It’s simple. We serve what our customers demand,” said another shack operator.
While the Tourism Department has not imposed restrictions on what food shacks can serve, it is expected that Goan cuisine remains a priority.
However, the ground reality suggests that competition and economic survival take precedence over political pronouncements.
Beyond the beach shacks, the presence of roadside eateries serving budget-friendly meals like Maggi noodles and biryani, as well as South Indian restaurants along the Calangute-Baga belt, further complicates the MLA’s vision for an exclusively Goan culinary identity.
With Goa’s tourism landscape evolving, shack operators find themselves caught between political pressures and market realities.
For now, idli-sambar remains on the menu “ not as a statement, but as a necessity.
