Dr Alvarinho J Luis
For The Goan
Beyond its beaches, cuisine and architecture, Goa’s rural landscape preserves a fascinating legacy of history, faith and tradition.
Majorda: Goa’s bread basket
Beginning with the letter M, Majorda stands out not only for its scenic beach but also as the cradle of Goa’s celebrated bread-making tradition. During the 13th–14th centuries, Madhavacharya’s teachings influenced Goa’s Saraswat communities, encouraging the spread of Vaishnavism. Centuries later, Portuguese missionaries introduced Christianity and new cultural practices, including European bread-making. Around 1550, Jesuit priests taught residents the art of baking, and tradition holds that Goa’s first bakery was established at Gomes Waddo in the house of Paixao Gomes. Majorda’s excellent toddy, then used as a natural leavening agent, helped the village develop a distinctive baking tradition. The craft subsequently spread to Utorda, Cansaulim, Chinchinim and Nuvem, and travelled as far as Bombay through Goan migration. The padeiro, or baker, thus became an enduring symbol of Goan village life.
Majorda’s Christian heritage is equally significant. The foundation stone of the Mother of God Church was laid on May 5, 1588. Interestingly, tradition associates the village with an earlier temple dedicated to Mamay, or the Great Mother, creating a remarkable continuity in Marian symbolism. Today, Majorda celebrates the feasts of Mother of God in May and Our Lady of Boa Morte in October. The village has also produced distinguished personalities, including Jnanpith laureate Damodar Mauzo and legendary violinist and composer Anthony Gonsalves, as well as numerous priests who have served the Church across Goa and beyond.
Mangeshi: A shrine of faith and music
Mangeshi, or Mangueshim, is renowned for the historic Shri Mangeshi Temple, one of Goa’s most celebrated shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva. The deity was originally worshipped at Kushasthali, present-day Cortalim, before the sacred lingam was relocated around 1560 to Mangeshi in Priol, then under the rule of the Nayakas of Sonda, to escape Portuguese persecution. Over the centuries, the temple developed into an impressive complex distinguished by its seven-storeyed octagonal deepstambh, sacred water tank and the imposing figure of Nandi, Lord Shiva’s traditional vahana.
The temple comes alive during Magha Purnima, when its annual jatra attracts thousands of devotees and visitors. The spectacular Ratha Yatra, during which the richly adorned deity is carried through the village on a chariot drawn by devotees, forms the highlight. Hundreds of oil lamps illuminating the Deepstambh add grandeur to the celebrations. Mangeshi is also inseparable from the illustrious Mangeshkar musical family. Pandit Deenanath Mangeshkar had ancestral roots here, a legacy carried into Indian music by his children—Lata Mangeshkar, Asha Bhosle, Usha Mangeshkar, Meena Khadikar and Hridaynath Mangeshkar.
Marcel: Home of Chikhal Kalo
Nearby Marcel, locally known as Mashel, is celebrated as one of Goa’s great temple villages. Chikhal Kalo, a vibrant monsoon festival at the Shree Devki Krishna Temple, highlights its distinctive cultural identity. The festival dates back more than 400 years and is believed to have moved to Marcel from Chorao, along with the deity, during Portuguese rule. During this unusual celebration, participants play traditional games in rain-soaked mud, recreating the playful childhood of Lord Krishna. The Shree Devki Krishna Temple is particularly significant for worshipping Krishna alongside his mother, Devaki. Marcel is also associated with a rich tradition of social reform and scholarship and is the birthplace of eminent scientist Dr Raghunath Mashelkar, a Padma Vibhushan awardee, further enriching the village’s remarkable cultural legacy.
Mardol: Legends of faith and justice
Mardol, forming a twin settlement with nearby Mangueshi, is an important spiritual and cultural centre in the Ponda region. The village is best known for the historic Shri Mahalsa Narayani Temple, dedicated to Mahalsa Narayani, revered as a female manifestation of Lord Vishnu. Like several temples of the Ponda hinterland, its history is linked to the relocation of deities from areas under Portuguese rule, particularly Verna, historically known as Varenyapuri. The temple complex reflects a rich tradition of collective worship. Alongside the principal deity are shrines dedicated to Shantadurga (Santeri) and Lakshmi Narayan, as well as the five principal ganas, or attendants, of Mahalsa—Grampurush, Bhagwati, Dadh, Simha Purush and Mhal Purush. Traditionally, these associated deities are worshipped before prayers are offered to the presiding goddess.
Among the temple’s most fascinating features is its enormous brass bell, historically associated with the administration of justice. The bell normally had no clapper, which was attached when a person was required to give testimony. Popular belief held that anyone who rang the bell while giving false testimony would face divine punishment within three days. Such was the reverence surrounding this tradition that, during Portuguese rule, testimony given before the deity was reportedly recognised in judicial proceedings. Another striking feature is the temple’s magnificent brass divli, an elaborate traditional oil lamp that adds to the architectural and devotional splendour of the complex. Together, these traditions make Mardol an enduring symbol of Goa’s religious heritage, folklore and living temple culture.
Moira: A village of icons
The timeless susegaad charm of Goa comes alive in Moira, a picturesque village nestled in Bardez taluka. The origin of the village name is intriguing. One interpretation links Moira to Moriya, suggesting an association with a Mauryan settlement, with mor, meaning peacock, recalling the bird associated with the Mauryan legacy. Moira is perhaps best known for its legendary Moira bananas, locally known as Moidechim kellim. The village has produced several eminent Moidekars who have contributed significantly to Goa’s political and intellectual history. Foremost among them are architect and Padma Shri awardee Charles Correa and Dr Jack de Sequeira, a central figure in the historic Opinion Poll of January 16, 1967, which preserved Goa’s separate identity. Other distinguished personalities include former MP Erasmo de Sequeira and eminent Indo-Portuguese historian Teotónio R. de Souza, among others.
(Dr Luis is a scientist and freelance writer from Taleigao)
