The fish curry is missing. The chicken is off the menu. In some homes, even the onion and garlic have been moved aside. As Shravan gets underway, the changes are most visible on the dining table. For a month, many kitchens across Goa follow a different set of food rules, replacing the usual non-vegetarian meals with vegetables, dals, pulses and other preparations. For a state where fish is an everyday part of the meal, this is no small change. Some families give up only fish and meat, while others avoid onion, garlic, brinjal and certain leafy vegetables too. The reasons behind these restrictions lie somewhere between faith, old beliefs and Ayurveda, seasonal practices and the food habits people have followed at home for generations.
The most common restriction is on fish and meat. For many devotees, Shravan is a sacred month dedicated to Lord Shiva, who is also regarded as the Pashupathinath (Lord of all creatures" or "Lord of animals"). Thus, avoiding non-vegetarian food is part of the religious observance. But the timing of the month also matters. Shravan falls during the monsoon, a season traditionally associated with digestive problems and food spoilage. Before refrigeration and modern storage became common, meat and fish could spoil quickly in humid conditions. Ayurveda also looks at the monsoon as a time when digestion can be affected. Heavy, oily, and difficult-to-digest food is therefore often avoided. This does not mean that fish or meat suddenly become harmful during Shravan, but that traditional preference for lighter food fits in with the season. A simple meal of rice, dal, and vegetables is easier to digest than a rich meat preparation.
Then there are the foods that raise more questions. Onion and garlic are vegetables, so why are they removed from the kitchen during Shravan? In traditional satvik food practices, both are believed to stimulate the senses and are therefore avoided during a period associated with prayer, fasting, and self-discipline. The same belief goes for mushrooms or the Goan almi (wild monsoon mushrooms that sprout on termite hills), which some homes avoid, as it is associated with decay. For some families, this means avoiding these only while fasting. Others stop using them for the entire month. However, some also link it to scientific reasons, believing that since onions and garlic grow below the ground, the rains could lead them to be more prone to insects and worms.
There are also practical reasons behind some of the older restrictions. Vegetables, especially leafy ones, can be exposed to mud, insects, and contaminated water during the monsoon. In the past, avoiding certain foods during the rains may have offered an added layer of caution. It does not mean leafy vegetables are unsafe or should not be eaten. They simply need to be cleaned and cooked properly.
That is perhaps what Shravan food is really like in Goa. It changes from one home to another. One family may give up only fish and meat, another may stop using onion and garlic, while someone else may observe all the restrictions only on Mondays. The food also brings its own variety. Dals, vegetables, tubers, sabudana, fruits, milk, and other simple preparations find more space on the plate. Recipes that are usually overlooked through the rest of the year suddenly become regular meals. For many, the reasons may have changed over time. Some follow the restrictions because of faith, some because it is a tradition they grew up with, and some simply because Shravan has always meant a different kind of meal at home. So, for a month, the familiar fish curry takes a backseat. The chicken curry disappears and, in some homes, even the humble onion has to wait. Not everyone follows the same rules, but as Shravan begins, the change is visible on the plate. In many Goan homes, the season is not just marked by the rain outside. It is also marked by what is missing and what replaces it at the dining table.
