BHARATI PAWASKAR
The enthusiastic group of men and women gathered at Old Goa at the invite of The Local Beat and was ferried to the village of Narve on the island of Divar to witness the celebrations of a unique festival “ ‘Astamichi Zatra’ that happens once a year on the eighth day (Asthami) of the Krishna Paksha (dark fortnight) in the month of Shravan (this year it was on August 23). The zatra is also known as ‘Bhutanchi Zatra’ (feast of the ghosts and spirits) as it is literally celebrated in the crematorium which otherwise people avoid visiting, except on the occasion of burning their dead ones.
The entire area, including the crematorium, is cleaned before the zatra and no lighting of the pyre happens for a day or two to ensure that there are no traces of fresh ashes. And the most interesting part of this zatra is all those who gather at the crematorium hurriedly leave before sunset, as it is commonly believed that after sunset, the ghosts, dead souls and spirits gather here to celebrate the remaining part of the feast.
“We had planned to take locals and tourists to this zatra in order to let them taste the flavour of local culture in Goa and we managed to rope in over a dozen participants whom we ferried to the island to witness the unusual zatra,” briefs co-founder of The Local Beat, Mackinlay Antonio das Merces Barreto aka Mack who is happy that the participants, 70 per cent of whom were locals and the remaining 30, tourists, found this visit quite astonishing. Offering responsible tourism through the Local Beat, Mack and his team tries and shows the local face of Goa through their visits to various places here.
Friday’s visit to Narve was one such endeavour that introduced the local tradition of this unusual feast that actually happens in a crematorium situated on the sacred confluence (holy tirth sangam) of five rivers, Panchaganga - Khandepar, Bicholim, Valvanti, Mhadai, Ragda. The feast attracts people from various communities who assemble here from across Goa on this day.
“There are two ferry boats plying people here on this day and these ferryboats run only on this day. There’s no ramp for the ferry boats which hit directly the river bank as they approach the island,” states author and photographer Pantaleo Fernandes who accompanied the Local Beat group as resource person.
Pantaleo who has attended ‘Astamichi Zatra’ multiple times in the past, explains, “People come here to take a dip in the river to wash away their sins, to offer leaves of Bel and Tulsi in the holy tirth for redemption of the dead souls. Some of them also come to untie the sacred thread tied on their wrists and throw it in the river. Others come here for breaking their fasts with the help of purohits and eat tender coconuts. There is a Ghumti of the deity Kaloba too, where people offer their reverences.”
In the vicinity, about five km from Bicholim there’s a small temple of Masandevi (goddess of the crematorium) with an anthill as the sanctum sanctuary. Again, on the bank of the river, on a nearby hillock there’s a small Ghumti of this goddess. The area is covered with tombstones and memorials in the names of the dead. Though it looks eerie, this is considered to be a sacred place to perform rituals for the dead and deceased. But all the rituals and celebrations happen during the daytime. As night approaches, people begin to disperse.
As Pantaleo shares, “The entire place wears a look of the festival, with stalls selling flowers, offerings and eatables. There are chanekars (gram sellers) who set up their bhattis (furnaces) and people who gather within the crematorium even buy and offer hot grams on leaves or paper left in the open on the bank of the river for the departed souls.”
The palakhi (palanquin) of the utsavmurti of the temple deity was brought and kept on the hillock for some time. Later it was brought down on the shoulders to offer a shower in the river. But since the river has become muddy, they simply dipped the feet in the river and returned with the deity to the temple.
Devotees going first in the temple of Masandevi come to river and pay homage to a small shrine associated with the lord Shiva. No person will stay at this place after the Sun-set as they have belief that spirits haunts at the night. The night time of Ashtami is allotted for the ghosts to celebrate their feast known as the ‘Bhutachi Zatra’. As per the local belief the area surrounding Masandevi temple till the way proceeding to the river bank along with the crematorium, is full with the ghosts, spirits and no one is allowed to stay there. Shopkeepers, vendors, flower-sellers all disappear as soon as evening approaches.
“After allowing the participants to witness all the rituals and celebrations, we too left the venue at 5 pm,” maintains Pantaleo who has documented several village fests and zatras in Goa and is well-versed with the local culture and traditions. The Local Beat intends to offer a glimpse of the old version of Goa to the locals as well as the tourists. There are local foods, drinks, festivals and talents in each village which need to be showcased. The Goa as it existed must be shown to those who come to see it. The idyllic village life, the evening chats, the walks, homemade dishes and drinks, the folk songs and the music “ there’s so much that Goa still retains.
“And unless we value and respect this Goa, and try to preserve at least some of it before it’s lost, what will we have to show our children and GenNext? In a bid to preserve the past, the locals are taken into confidence before bringing tourists in their villages to show unique festivals, food and culture. It’s a way of allowing the locals to make some business too, while offering the local tastes to the guests. It’s a give and take which benefits both, the guests and the hosts. We are looking forward to add more feasts, zatras and unique places to our list,” smiles Mack.
