JANET MASCARENHAS
There was a time when most Goans could predict the weather simply by looking at the clouds, the sun, and the moon. Before modern weather forecasts, plants, animals, and birds announced the changing of the seasons, and life followed a natural, rhythmic cycle
Looking back
This past May saw people actively preparing for the current monsoon season. The Mapusa and Margao church feasts, Purumentache Fest, witnessed massive crowds as people rushed to stock up on essential supplies. These grand annual fairs attracted a large number of vendors selling dried seafood, spices, tamarind, kokum, pulses, cured meat, and coconut oil to sustain families through the wet season.
During drought years or a late monsoon, the agrarian Christian community traditionally walked long distances to a cross or chapel carrying a stone on their heads, often accompanied by their Hindu brethren. Rev Fr Milchester Furtado O.F.M. Cap., Parish Priest of Sinquerim, noted how hard times unified the village in faith: “We do certain things which may look foolish sometimes. However, we still do it, because we have faith. God will see our hearts and bless us.” This tradition remains a powerful testament to the community's shared fears, faith, and hopes.
Early monsoon blessings
Goans firmly believe that feast days are blessed with abundant showers. In June, for the Feast of St John the Baptist, Sao Joao, villagers celebrated by jumping into wells wearing kopels, floral headgear. Traditionally, a son-in-law visits his wife’s house and is offered a vojem, a basket of seasonal fruits and a bottle of feni, which he then shares with the community, leading to the affectionate name zaviachem fest, the feast of the son-in-law.
During the Feast of St Peter and Paul in Candolim, villagers organised a Sangodd, a floating stage created by tying multiple fishing boats together, to host cultural performances. In Morjim, the annual Feast of the Cross, Santa Khuris, was celebrated jointly by Catholics and Hindus. Devotees lit candles at the cross and offered oil for a traditional lamp, while the adjacent Tulsi Vrindavan was simultaneously watered and venerated.
Celebrating July in the present
Now that we are deep into July, the month is being marked by a colorful blend of Hindu festivals and Christian feasts. Chikal Kalo, celebrated in Marcel from July 24 to 26, is one of the festive highlights right now. Enthusiastic male villagers fling themselves into the gathering mud to reenact Lord Krishna’s mischievous childhood. “We play games that Lord Krishna played in the mud, and everyone joins in enthusiastically each year,” mentions local Chetan Naik.
Later this month, on the last Sunday of July, devotees of different faiths will gather at St Anne’s Church in Talaulim for the Touxeachem Fest. People will offer cucumbers to the saint in return for her intercession, continuing a uniquely Goan tradition.
Harvest and heritage
It is widely believed that August should start on a sweet note with coconut and jaggery. On August 15, for the Feast of Our Lady of the Assumption, the first harvest will be blessed and Patoleos, a sweet dish made of rice stuffed with coconut and jaggery, will be prepared. This same delicacy will grace the Hindu festive platter during Nag Panchami, a day devotees offer milk to snakes and pray for protection.
August will also bring Bonderam on Divar Island, a flag festival commemorating historical resistance against Portuguese land demarcations. Over in Sinquerim, the local priest will bless the sea for the Feast of St Lawrence, officially marking the start of the village's fishing activities.
Come September, many Goans will travel to Velankanni to pray for a fruitful fishing season. Back in Calangute, annual processions on the beach will be held for the Feast of Our Lady of Vailankanni, followed by the blessing of the sea. For Ganesh Chaturthi, the matoli, a small pandal above the idol, will be beautifully decorated with seasonal fruits. Families will return to their ancestral homes to celebrate together. “It is my favourite festival because we have so many family activities and the whole family is together,” says Priya Revodkar. Offerings will include traditional modaks stuffed with coconut and sugarcane jaggery.
A shared cultural memory
Goa’s traditional practices transcend boundaries, showcasing a people living in genuine coexistence. While some of these celebrations have adapted to changing times, they remain a vibrant reminder of the seasonal rhythm that once dictated when to fish, sow, harvest, preserve, pray, and celebrate. Together, they keep alive the cultural memory of a life lived in perfect harmony with the monsoons.
