Twin Peaks, Twin Towers, and Twin Islands; Twin Cities and even Twin Quasars; what about "Trekking Twins"? It's not often one encounters a pair of twins so hooked on outdoor adventures, whose love and passion for hiking and high-altitude trekking have seen them take up the challenge of scaling many peaks in India and some beyond.
Meet Sugandha Udar and Medha Monteiro, née Dandekar, still the "Dandekar Twins" to the trekking community. Brought up in Goa, they began their adventurous journey in 1978, at a very young age while still in school. These look-alike twins, with similar likes and dislikes, are inclined to clear the air, stating that they are "fraternal" and "not identical", while challenging folks to tell them apart. Decades down the line, friends and fellow trekkers still get fooled!
From being founding members of the Goa Hiking Association [GHA] to participating in local treks, the Dandekars have covered many hiking routes in Goa and also tried their hands at rock climbing conducted by the GHA at Kalay. The most challenging has been Goa's highest peak, Sossogad at 1026 metres. Favourites are the Dudhsagar Waterfall trek and Anjadiva Island, now unfortunately out of bounds.
From discovering new routes with the GHA to serving as Camp Leaders, Medha reminds me with a twinkle, "Don't forget, we have also chipped in at Trekking Programmes as Helpers, Quarter Masters, Cooks and many other roles in between".
Then the mountains of the North beckoned. They have participated both individually and together in treks facilitated by the GHA and organised by the YHAI in collaboration with the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. These include the Barsey Peak Trek [Sikkim], the Brahma Peak Base Camp Trek to Kishtwar [J&K], Chandrakhani Pass in Himachal, the Suru Valley, and the Leh Trek in Leh-Ladakh.
The beauty and lure of Uttarakhand and Himachal are irresistible. Sugandha, based in Los Angeles, flies over the seas to join her Parra-based twin Medha for their annual rite of passage to the mountains, some of which, like the Kuari Pass, Roop Kund in Uttarakhand, and the most recent Yunam [Himachal Pradesh], were planned and organised by the duo and undertaken with assistance from the back-up team.
Treks to Peaks of the Pir Panjal and Dhauladhar Ranges, Saur Taal, Naag Saur Taal, Deo Tibba Base Camp, Pha Konda Base Camp, and the Shrigan Tungu Base Camp Trek were undertaken under Eco Treks and organised by Mountain Expeditions, Himachal Pradesh.
The call of the mountains is often hard to ignore. The twins have also set foot beyond borders, completing the Himalayan Mount Kailash Parikrama [Western Tibet] in 2016 with the highest Dolma Pass at 18,500 ft. Next was the Mt. Everest Base Camp Trek in 2017 at 17,598 ft., both with Eco Treks, organised by Adventure Pulse, Pune. Then came the 2019 Trek to Uhuru Peak at 19,341 ft, and a glimpse of the snows of Mt. Kilimanjaro as part of their adventure in Africa.
For these intrepid trekkers, now in their sixties, "age is no barrier", which also accompanies the belief they wish to promote that "nothing is impossible" and "it is never too late to follow one's heart". When I prod about why the mountains, Medha quotes Gregory Mallory: "Because it is there". Sugandha echoes Yvon Chouinard: "Nature's raw power teaches us to be humble". Together they playfully chime, "to be like that bear, and see what's on the other side of the mountain".
Back in Goa and exhausted after an "unexpectedly gruelling" successful climb, along with their entourage, to the top of Mount Yunam in Himachal Pradesh at 20,060 ft. The latest peak under their boots was reached after many fears about unfavourable weather and the possibility of mishaps over the moraine-strewn, hazardous path.
Their Endurance Mantra? "Thorough research, careful Planning to the T, Yoga, Gymming, at least 6 kms of daily walks, physical and mental fitness, along with a positive mindset and a readiness to ‘rough it out,’ putting the expedition together, belief in ourselves and above all, faith in the Gods," they reply.
Their inspiration is late Sir Edmund Hillary, who opined, "It is not the mountains we conquer, but ourselves.”
Sugandha has a 34-year career at UCLA, now in the cancer research field. Nurturing family, weekend treks, and growing her own vegetables and tropical fruits keep her busy. Medha, the Goa-based twin and a talented artist, runs a Kindergarten School at Candolim. Any message to the younger generation? "There is more to learn from the outdoors than the screen, and it is also definitely more interesting.” For the older folks, "It's never too late to go out and enjoy that hike and the world around you.”
(The Writer is also a hiker, trekker, and a Life Member of the GHA: [email protected])
